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Frozen locks on Passat do not take apart just heat up the key with a cigarette lighter and unfreeze them then use white lithium grease that is available in Canada @ Canadian Tire in a spray bomb. Squirt into the locks door latches hinges etc . I do this i the winter after it has rained to prevent freezing the next time it gets cold. Seems to work very well. Use lots and work the locks during application to get everything coated.

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Who cares about a 4.8% increase in fuel economey. i get a wounderful 45.9 mpg.

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Has anyone tried "Howes Power Kleen" diesel fuel additive? They guarantee a 4.8% increase in fuel economy. If true, such an increase in economy is well worth the price of a bottle, not to mention the additional benefits of a clean and lubricated fuel in ector system, upper cylinder lubrication, water dispersion, etc.

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Regarding "clogging the catalytic converter": What clogs a catalytic converter is not what additive you use. What clogs one is simply bad driving habits. Shifting at too high of an RPM or flooring the accelerator habitually will clog your converter wit out a doubt. If you drive in such a manner that you can see any smoke at all in your side or rear view mirror, a certain amount of carbon is continually building up in your converter until your TDI starts running like it has a lawn mower engine in it! W at I do is ALWAYS shift at 1800 RPM with slight throttle. I get up to desired speed plenty fast enough!

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an update to my previous post - I got the latch mechanism off one of the front doors. I'll dry that out by the woodstove overnight, then lube and reinstall. Now I find that my parking brake is not releasing completely! There's some drag on one(or both) of the rear wheels, and there's lots of slack in the lever (inside the car). Looks like I'll be under the car in the morning :^(

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This is not TDI-specific, but has to do with frozen locks and latches. If anyone has any advice on how to get latches to latch (both front doors - 96 Passat)I'd appreciate it! A heated garage would do fine but I don't have one and temps are in the teens (F) and going lower tonight. I think there is a catch that's supposed to pop up within the latch mechanism. That's not happening and both doors won't close - grrrr! I expect I will have to take the latches apart, thaw and dry them, and relube. There s a black plastic covering over the latch that I expect may pop off exposing some bolts. Before I destroy it, can someone confirm that's been there before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, rob BTW, locks are frozen, too!

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Diesel Fuel Additives: When using a diesel fuel additive you want to make certain it is compatible with your catalytic converter. Some of the diesel fuel additives formulated for HD over-the-road diesels produce ash when burned - these ash deposits will eventually plug up the converter resulting in higher back pressure and loss of performance. The chemical used to suppress exhaust smoke is sometimes the cause of these ash deposits .... This problem develops very gradually over many thousands of miles, s it's not something you'll notice right away. It's worth checking with the additive manufacturer if the bottle isn't labeled in this regard.

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I have just taken delivery of my first diesel car and I am definitely *not* disappointed. The engine is very powerful, especially at low revs and the car is very comfortable to drive. I am very glad that I joined the diesel family ! Concerning oil: My gar ge uses and recommends the semi-synthetic oil "Shell Helix Plus 10W-40" Happy TDI-ing in 1999 ! Peter

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I've heard that the TDI powertrain in the new Jetta is the same as that of the A3 platform. The VW website seems to say differently...

98 Jetta:
Torque: 149 @ 1900 RPM
HP: 90 @ 4000 RPM

99 Jetta:
Torque: 155 @ 1900 RPM
HP: 90 @ 3750 RPM

Does anybody know how this changed? Thanks in advance.

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Anyone know where I can get cheaper oil filters for the new TDI. It has a cartridge type filter like Mercedes has been using where the engine has a cast aluminum housing with a plastic cap that unscrews you then lift out the filter paper. By what I am he ring I don't think the older TDI's work this way. It sounds like they have a regular metal case spin on filter. Am I correct? My filter isn't available at parts stores yet and it costs $17.00 from VW

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For everyones information ROBERT BENTLEY PUBLISHERS (The official Volkswagen service manual publisher) will be coming out with a updated service manual for our Jetta TDI's next year. Their web site is ( http://www.rb.com ). To Joe from Fla.: It is normal for our diesel engine oil to become very black. My suggestion, as a professional aircraft mechanic of 23 years, is to change your oil regularly. Every 3,000 - 4,000 miles is best. Don't try to go 10,000 miles on a oil chan e. Changing your oil every 3,000 miles is the cheapest insurance you can buy. Trying to save $20.00 for oil & a filter change on a $20,000 car is stupid. Make sure you use a Diesel type engine oil with the CG-4 rating. I use Castrol Syntec Blend "Truck nd 4X4 formula" 15W40 ($2.10 @ Quart at Wall-Mart) and Volkswagen 068 115 561B oil filters ($8.64 at the dealer). Get a pocketful of Volkswagen drain plug gaskets while you are at the dealer p/n (N-013-849-2) @ $0.30, and you'll have enough to change oil or the life of the car. See Yall; Jerry Pope

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What experience has anyone had with fog lights? I am looking into buying a set that are functional, not just for looks. I am dealing with a lot of fog, and snow to come soon, and I want to see more than 10 feet in front of my car. I have heard that sel ctive yellow is the best color, but I have not seen any on the market. If you have installed aftermarket fogs please give me your $.02

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I am having problems with the power door lock button on the dash (cental locking switch). If I lean over the driver seat and use this button to lock the doors, then close the drivers door, all the doors will be locked and the alarm will not be enabled. f I am sitting in the drivers seat and do the same thing, the drivers door will not lock. According to the manual, I should not be able to lock the drivers door by using the Central locking switch. I'm glad I found this glitch as I am tired of hearing t e horn bleat every time I lock the car. Any one else notice this? Jon

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Hi Everyone! Just Bought a 96 tdi passat with 43,000 miles on it, im very happy with it. But i am very concern about the oil color is super black,i change it but turns black very quick(i mean very black!). I really appreciate any input on this!

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Hi everyone Ilike to know if the super black color from my car oil is normal in diesel engines. Thanks for any comments!

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The temperature dropped to -35C last night. The Jetta's block heater was not plugged in. So the glow plugs had to stay on longer than usual, about 15 seconds (cf. 2or3 seconds w block heater). The TDI started instantly without any fuss. This engine ca handle the coldest weather. Never feel worried about the TDI not starting in cold weather.

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I'd like to hear from anyone that has obtained performance numbers from their TDI powered autos. U.S., Canada, Europe, Africa, where ever. If you have dynomometer tested, drag raced (speed and/or elapsed time), measured 0-60 (or 0-100km) times, maximum sp ed, whether stock chipped or aftermarket performance chipped, stopping distances, interior noise levels, anything that has been instrument measured related to performance. Borrow your friend's G-tech accelerometer if you can. I'd like to hear your numbers Please e-mail me personally rather than filling up Fred's site. Thank you.

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Oh,I meant to say I have read many oil consumption concerns regarding the TDI. I have had virtually no oil consumption. In 3000 miles the dip stick is down 1/4". I wonder if your dealers are using thinner oil. I know for a fact that mine uses 15W-40 as do I.

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Hey Ken, See my entries below. The glowplug issue is well known by VWoA. There shouldn't be any question that they will replace the relay. I love my NB-TDI, but have very serious concerns with VW's approach to customer satisfaction. If VW doesn't totally piss off it's customer base, they'll make a lot of money with their product, because their cars ARE appealing. Lexus is the standard they need to be keeping in mind. My $.02, Maaak

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John, I have noticed more engine noise inside of my car since we have finally had a cold snap. It's not the diesel clatter but all around engine and exhaust shound. I think it is simply the fact that the mounts for the engine and exhaust are of course ubber and stiffen up in the cold which causes them to transmit more sound to the body of the car. Still waiting to hear check engine light problems concerning GLOW PLUG RELAY. Still haven't returned to my dealer to have my car messed with.(it will be the third time!) I think I will try V.W. hotline again.

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Well I knew it was to good to be true. The day I went to the bank to payoff my VW loan a year early, It starts breaking down. First my door handle breaks ($206)due to lack of lube. What the heck am I paying close to $200 for a major maintance for? Do you ay extra for grease or lube? Next the lock on the ignition fails and now the steering wheel grinds under rotation with movement on the steering colum.No clue what happened there, but going in tomorrow to get looked at.Is it me or does the exhaust sound re l throaty as it's gotten colder almost as if it leaks? I looked at the exhaust, didn't see any holes or leaks, but there is seperation between layers of metal. I guess this is not a stainless steel exhaust. that would have been nice!Anyway one more thing, after changing my oil I noticed water coming out of the shaft on the water pump.I'll try to get that covered under 10/100,000 warrenty even at 104k. But I've got no sign of wear on my original brakes. There's still alot of meat left.There you have it. I guess not to bad,after 3 yrs. of no repair here it comes.Any comments or thoughts on these problems? How are your vehicles doin with similar mileage or age? I'd really like to know. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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Ric, there is an easier method to replace wiper blades. Trico makes a line called "Exact Fit", both blades and refills, that simply slide in with no adapters or modifications. Or, if you want slightly better quality, go with the Bosch blades or refills. p>

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Re: Wiper blades - I just changed my wiper blade inserts for the first time. I got a pair of 20 inchers and cut the passenger side one down about an inch of the plastic, and 1 1/2" of the rubber with a Dremel tool. I filled in the end with hot glue to k ep the rubber from sliding out ouf the plastic part. Yes, it is true that the blades must slide freely in the "prongs" for best windshield contact. My replacement ones were MUCH wider than the originals, so the prongs had to be bent farther apart to fit They work perfectly with 100% windshield contact, and next time the job will be much easier with no tweeking req'd.

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Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this page. Happy Holidays Oilburners!

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Hi, Are you changing the inserts with OE, or aftermarket inserts? I put aftermarket inserts in my OE blade arms and it's doing the same as yours. This is caused when the inserts are not allowed to slide freely through the blade arm's "fingers," which is ecessary due the finger's hinges. They must slide so that the blade insert can bend to conform to the windshield's changing (in relationship to the moving blade) curvature. I feel that buying an entire wiper kit (not just the replacement insert) will com letely eliminate this problem. Keep in mind that when you replace blade inserts you probably should replace them with the same brand of inserts as the wiper arm itself. The slight differences between brands/OE could effect how smoothly the insert slides ithin the blade arm. Take Care, Scott For "Bud": No one cares what someone who cannot post his/her name and stand firm with his/her comments has to say, especially when trying to speak for everyone.

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Has anyone else experienced any highs and lows in their windshield? I have changed my wiper blades twice the I still cannot get a complete sweep of the blade across the windshield. At the same two spots the wiper blade will not clear the glass. It will do this during rain or snow. I am not exactly sure if I am feeling a slight depression in the gkass at one of the small spots not being cleaned. Also is there anyone whose clutch doesn't feel like it is engaging the engine until the clutch pedal is just about at the top of release. I hope this isn't a problem, however I feel sometimes the car is going to stall especially if I am starting up a very steep hill. So far 48.5 MPG and going strong. Happy TDIing.

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Scott, we don't care if you are KE4WMF.

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Hi, It's good to know that our cars may start after a nuclear detonation. That way I can run to Walmart and pick up some SPF 1,000,000 sunblock. Just kidding, guys. Have a Good Christmas. Scott

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BOB- I agree that the 'modern' TDI's do have CPU's , but isn't the brain in that car mostly for the Turbo - well probably for the throttle as well. The injectors (correct me if i'm wrong, anyone) do still appear to be mechanically actuated (there are no e ectrical leads to them) and the fuel injector pump is also mechanically driven. An experiment is needed here: one could remove the cut-off valve and the ground strap on the battery and try popping the clutch. My guess is that a TDI would start and run, but would not accelerate (VW uses a potentiometer instead of a cable, now). Perhaps I'll try it... By the way, JASON, I wasn't trying to belittle your (our) issues regarding high Chicagoland diesel prices. There are many taxes that seem unfair in this area (Illinois tollways, for example). I say we assemble a non-for-profit co-op organization to produce biodiesel from recycled cooking oil and not pay any taxes (or fuel companies for that matter) at all (I'm completely serious by the way, just couldn't do it on my own). If you or anyone in t e are is interested, we should discuss it...

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Adrian -- The last part of my previous rant about the weird taxing and pricing of diesel was cut off. What it said, essentially, was that none of us in the US can complain too much about fuel prices -- gas or diesel -- since not only are oil prices at hi toric lows, but in the US our fuel incurs the lowest taxes of any other non-OPEC country I can think of. So despite my rant, I *do* keep perspective. ;->

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just for kicks---SOL, Like you I thought our cars would still be able to run after the "nukes" hit. But considering that our modern TDI's use numerous computers to run, a blast from a nuke typically releases strong EMP's which are thought to destroy the delicate CPU's in our cars rendering our vehicles useless (electric fuel pump, fuel injection system, etc...) Post modern diesels didn't have this technology, hence to shut off them one had to cut off the fuel supply to kill the engine. Physicist am I correct? I hope I'm wrong, but? Maybe Art Bell would know.... Later

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It sounds like some of you are paying a lot of taxes with the fuel. In New Hampshire diesel is around only 3-5 cents more than 87 Gas. (And there is no state income tax and no sales tax, including new cars)

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Hi Jason, Don't know what you are complaining about. My TDI just cost me £16.275 and diesel is around 61 to 63 pence per litre. Think yourself lucky that your cars and fuel are much much cheaper than in good old U.K. Happy Christmas and prosperous New Year all you TDI'ers.

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This is mostly repeated information but it's never been posted all together. Many TDites have expressed interest in gearing our cars taller (fewer RPMs for the same speed). Well, GIVE IT UP!!!! You can't do it unless you are adept at gear design and dr p forging (or whatever they do now-a-days). According to Sean at Kraftswerk, we have the tallest gearing VW makes for the 02A transmission. This is what we have;

1st- 3.78:1

 2nd- 2.12:1

 3rd- 1.35:1

 4th- 0.97:1

 5th- 0.76:1

 Reverse- 3.80:1

 Final Drive- 3.24:1

 If you multiply the Final drive by the gear ratio, you get the number of engine cycles/wheel revolution (if you divide this into 207.06, you get the MPH at 3000 RPM). The 020 tansmission has a 0.71 5th gear but that won't work on our cars. The only way o get taller is to use larger tires - as I said in a previous post the tallest we can use is 195/65-15. Lastly, I'd like to apologize for the fact that this post has nothing to do with which oil is best ;).....D'nardo

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So what, Sol? Well, I like my diesel as much as the next person on this site, but there are a few reasons that the high price of diesel merits a little more than a "so what." (1) The high price of diesel almost offsets the fuel-cost savings of the TDI, o that if I always purchased diesel in Illinois, or particularly in Chicago, it would cost the same to fuel my 45+ mpg TDI as it would to fuel a 25+ mpg GL. Since the TDI MSRP is about a grand more than the GL, this hurts. (2) There's no good reason for diesel to be so much more expensive than gas. I realize that lack of competition, low volume in city filling stations, etc., will add to the price of diesel in Chicago, but the differential is so high that I suspect other factors are at work. (3) Other actors *are* at work. Illinois -- perhaps with good reason -- taxes diesel at a very high rate. This may be an attempt to reflect the higher costs that might be imposed by many diesel powered vehicles, like heavy trucks (which may put more wear on roads bridges, etc.). But our TDIs don't impose these extra costs -- our TDIs impact roads just the same amount that gas cars do, and in fact, our engines pollute less than comparable gas engines do. Therefore, if the state really wanted to use fuel taxes to help internalize certain environmental costs, it would tax our diesel fuel at a lower rate than the gas that goes in your average passenger car. On the other hand, since we get such great mileage, perhaps the higher tax on diesel actually is meant to equ lize the amounts we diesel drivers end up paying per mile driven (i.e. so we're paying about the same fuel tax per mile driven as a gas Jetta). But I doubt it. Unfortunately, the diesel tax is a blunt instrument -- we're just lumped in with another clas of vehicles that people find it more appropriate to tax. But, since every driver in this country gets to externalize so much of the costs of driving (pollution, wear and tear on roads), and fuel prices across the board are at historic lows, Sol certainly is right that we don't have *too* much to complain about. p>

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Regarding IL fuel prices... So what, diesel fuel is more expensive, IT SMELLS BETTER THAN GAS! ...and you don't have to stop at the gas station as often. Plus, hey, if the nukes go off diesels will still run.

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To Darren A: You are entirely correct about the EC classification - however, you will not find any petroleum based 5w-30/10w-30 oils that carry either the CF or CH-4, API classifications for diesel engines. When the current "SJ" spec came out, the standa dized tests for gas & diesel engine oils diverged, so only synthetic blends (ie: Valvoline Durablend, Castrol Syntec blend (15w-40)) or full synthetics (Mobil 1) are rated SJ/CF or SJ/CH-4. The other choice is a HD diesel oil (ie: Shell Rotella T, Chevro Delo 400, etc.),in a 15w-40 grade, rated CH-4/SJ. There are some HD diesel oils available in lighter viscosity grades (Rotella SB synthetic blend), but these aren't widely distributed - your best bet would be truck stops for these products ....

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To Ted & Darren: My understanding is that the "energy conserving" moniker applies to any 5W-30 or 10W-30 multigrade oil. They are energy conserving simply because they have a lower viscosity (compared to say, a 15W-40 or 20W-50 multigrade, or a straight 30 weight oil). Being less viscous, these oils offer less resistance to moving parts, and also work better at lower temperatures. I don't think "energy conserving" is an actual API rating. However, I seem to recall that someone (the Dept. of Transporta ion?, Commerce?) sets standards for what oils can be called "energ conserving". Anyway, Darren is right -- they can be either synthetic or mineral-based.

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Oil consumption - This is not oil being burned by an engine with loose tolerances, its turbo shaft seal blow by.

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Paul Meyer of New York: 1/2 quart of oil consumption in 1500 miles, even after a vehicle is broken in, is completely reasonable and nothing to worry about at all. Having your engine messed with to attempt to fix the "problem" could do more harm than good My theory is: If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

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Ted, I don't want to burst your bubble, but 'energy conserving' does not mean a synthetic oil. It is an API classification similar to that of CF or any other classification. Therefore, if your synthetic oil, in the starburst symbol, does not say 'energy conserving' or 'energy conserving II', then it is probably no more energy conserving than a mineral based oil of the same viscosity. A synthetic that is not labeled 'energy conserving' is also less efficient than any oil, of the same weight, that is labe ed so.

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Oil consumption has always been a problem on my new Jetta. It started out using about 1/2 guart in 1000 miles of driving. The dealer told me that since this was still being run in, I should wait. After 15000 miles of driving ( just ready for the 3rd oil c ange) it has improved to 1/2 quart per 1500 miles.On a tip from a diesel mechanic, I examined the input plumbing of the intercooler. The inside of the ducts was covered with so much oil that it dripped from my fingertips. The dealer will be replacing the urbo next month. For anyone experiencing high oil consumption, this is an easy test to make. All you have to do is remove the high pressure connection and examine the inside. There should not be any oil or liquid ( a film is ok).

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I've just turned 70,000 miles on my 96 Passat TDI. I have never sensed the need to use any fuel additives for better mileage, or better operation, or for water"dispersal". Does the dispersal of the water make it simply "go away"? Or does it blend it into he fuel whereupon it goes through the engine? Isn't the purpose of the separator to prevent any water that might be in the fuel from getting into the engine? My owner's manual recommends draining any water from the separator portion of the fuel filter eac 15,000 miles, and replacing the entire filter/separator each 30,000 (Your Manual May Vary). I have drained it each 15,000 and even out of curiousity drained the removed filters at 30 and 60k mi. I have likewise found no water in the separation chamber on any of the four occasions. I have either been fortunate that my selection of fuel stations, or maybe the amount of water is less than the additive vendors want me to believe. My mileage is still improving slightly in spite of choosing not to use any fuel dditives. I have owned the car for just over 53,480 of those 70,000 and a few miles, and I have consumed just under 1030 gallons of diesel fuel in travelling that distance. I have likewise felt no more need to pull the injectors to check the spray pattern that I have had desire to pull the connecting rods to check bearing clearances. If, and when, I notice a drop in mileage or performance, then I will look for the cause of the change. Until that time I'll continue with what works for me in my situation. Y u may continue with what works for you in yours. p.s. to Santa, I'll let you know the results of my 15,000 mile oil change interval with a by-pass oil filter.

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To Ken in Cleveland, re: TDI oil viscosities ... Ken, In the VW owners manual it states that 5w-30/10w-30, "energy conserving" (read: synthetic) oils may be used in all temp ranges. I run an SAE 10w-30, 100% synthetic in my 1997 Jetta and 1990 Audi 100 with excellent results yearround - the low pressure oil buzzer never comes on (the Audi has 147k miles on it, BTW). IMHO, you would be better off using a 5w-30/10w-30 synthetic diesel oil (CF rated) in cold climates - the CF oil will work fine as long as you are not running long drain intervals. You can alway have a sample of your used oil analyzed to see how it is holding up....The Mobil "Delvac 1" (CH-4/SJ) would be even better if you can find it.

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It seems everyone has their favorite fuel additive. Has any agency or magazine evaluated these additives to determine the best one or if they have any benefit at all. Also is there any concern that any of these could have an effect on the catalytic conv rter. I see on the Fuel Power website that there are three versions of their fuel additive. One is plain, one contains a lubricant and one called Total Power that lubricates and cleans injectors as well.

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A bypass oil filter is not needed.

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Does anyone have experience with the Amsoil bypass filter & synthetic oil setup on the TDI engine?

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This message is for Ken in Austin: I use FUEL POWER fuel additive and get similar results. I have used it for 100,000 miles in an Oldsmobile diesel and never had a drop of water when draining the filter. The car had 83,000 miles when I first bought it, nd over the first 5 or 6 tankfuls, the fuel economy increased quite noticeably, and smoking almost ceased. I now have used FUEL POWER for 30,000 miles on my Jetta, and I am now averaging right at 50 MPG. One $3.99 bottle lasts for about 12,000 miles, ma ing it a lot cheaper than what you are using. Try it!

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To Ken in Cleveland re: 15-40. After three days of listening to my tdi rattle very loud at start-up for up to a minute, I replaced the Delo 400 15-40 I had just put in with Mobil One 5-30. The Delo 400 15-40 is the only H.D. diesel oil I can find in my town, and I am mystified why so any diesel owners would use that syrup here in the winter. The three days I used it the temps were mild, 30-35F, I would hate to use it when it gets cold. The previous week I had started the TDI at 0 degrees F with Castrol Syntec 5-30 with no rattle and no starting problems. It took about 15 seconds to "glow it up" but it ran perfect right away. I have the parts house looking into ordering Mobil Delvac One in 5-40 for me. The filter I used was Napa #1191. Jon

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I have a 1996 passat and while driving down the road yesterday the red dashboard lights came on and all power stopped. I rolled to the curb and the car hasn't started since. I have 90,000 miles on the car. I'm thinking bad fuel (although the first 7 gal ons worked fine), or air in the fuel line (although no obvious leaks or evidence). The car turns over and blows unburned white/grey smoke fuel out the tailpipe...and the battery is new and charged. Anybody got any other ideas where to look for the probl m? I'm going to get it towed home right now...so if you can share any info I would greatly appreciate it...thanks. Either email me or respond here.

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Tim @ Roanoke ----DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVE --- I have used Stanadyne Performance Formula for about five years. I recently had my injectors checked on my 90 Jetta with 125,000 miles and they were find. The Performance Formula also gives me the added power I eed. I started using it on my 99 TDI because I have yet to find the water separator. This additive will also help disperse the water in the fuel. When I have checked the water seperator in my 90 I have not found any water so it must be working. It cos about $5 a pint, however you only dump in 3oz per tank full which works out to over 2000 miles a bottle. For nearest location call 1-800-842-2496. Happy TDI'ing

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Martin -- Santa Clara FUEL GUAGE PROBLEM I have had similar problems with my fuel guage. Two out of the seven times I have filled up the guage has taken up to 15 minutes to reach the full mark. After that it always goes up within a second. I think it may be a sticking sending unit. I also am very concerned about having anybody look at it for fear they will screw something else up. I'm hopeing it will go away and if not I still have around 20 months of warranty left. Happy TDIing

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I finally sat down and calculated a conversion factor for using Mobil Delvac 1 (synthetic) in our TDI's instead of an 18-wheeler. First, let's say we compare to a typical 10 liter engine that typically runs at 2,000 RPM @ 70 MPH, and holds 48 quarts of o l. Second, the Mobile Homepage recommends 100,000 between oil changes. Next we factor in the total quantity of oil each engine holds. The factor then is (4.4/48) X 100,000 miles = 9,167 miles. After that we have an RPM factor which is (2,000/2,600) X ,167 miles = 7,058 miles. Lastly, we factor in the number of liters of the engines to which is (10.0/1.9) X 7,058 miles = 37,147 miles for the final oil change interval number. This final number is probably good for all quality synthetic oils such as AM OIL, Royal Purple, etc. Happy TDI'ing!

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Re: Oil change intervals. I too read the consumer reports article about cab engines having the same engine wear at 10,000 mi. changes as at 3,000 mi. changes. My concern is with sludge build up. Since cab engines are run nearly 24 hours / day they don't have oil baking onto hot engine parts at shut off like normal cars would also they don't have time to allow the oil to thicken and possibly begin to plug small oil passages like normal cars would. I hear that todays engines have much closer tolerences an clean oil is a must to keep them clear of varnish and sludge. I'll keep changing my oil every 3,000 just to be sure. I figure if an engine blows in five minutes with no oil I want to be srue that the oil that is in there is in the best condition possib e. I have a question however... My dealer uses 15W- 40 in there cars (even the gas ones, they are a VW/BMW dealer.) They claim that VW's and BMW's need the heavier oil to keep the oil light from comming on. Is this oil too heavy for winter use? They clai no but the manual shows 15W-40 to only go down to 32 degrees F. I can't find a diesel approved oil any lighter. Let me know.

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Check out this page for all kinds of info on oil, filters, recycling oil, etc. Lots of good info: www.comoindustrial.com/technical/technic/technic.htm

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Does anyone know what must be done to store the TDI for 1-2 years. I am moving overseas and will store the car if I do not sell it.

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in answer to several questions, first: the there may be a tdi model passat later in 1999, at this point it sounds like a v6 2.5l tdi, and my research suggest that it will not have any economic advantage unless one was already planning to buy a v6 passat g s witha n automatic trans. secondly; regarding the wheel size, the old passat had a 100mm 4 bolt setup just like any other vw, the new passat has a 5 bolt 108mm bolt pattern from audi, off course, since they designed thei entire suspension, and lastely th new vw jettas iv, use a 5 bolt 100,mm pattern which is consistant with the 5 bolt pattern used by the vr6's, so done just runout and change your wheels until you know exactly what you have. c.l.

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I would like to know if the Passat will be offered with the TDI diesel engin in the United States for the model year 1998?

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Jason, funny you should ask about pushing the envelope. I was talking today to the guy at Shine Racing about suspensions, and mentioned wanting to make my gearing taller (lower 5th gear ratio). He said some guy in a (you guessed it) TDI wanted to do the same. He couldn't find anything available for the transmission so he decided to install the largest tire/wheel combination possible. The answer is... 195/65-15. That gives you a 7.6% taller drive. Of course the speedometer will read 7.6% slower. Pers nally, my summer tires will most likely be 205/55-15 (2.9% increase).

 By the way, check the archives here. I recall someone writing about the gearing and saying that we could go slightly taller. I think it was September or so....D'nardo

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I was wondering if anyone has had problems with their fuel gauges. Sometimes the needle on mine will climb by almost 1/8 of a tank while driving, stay there for a while, then come back down. At first, I thought it was fuel sloshing around in the tank whil accelerating/decelerating, but I've seen this behavior while cruising as well. I'm a little concerned... I'd bring it back to the dealer to have it serviced, but at this point, I'm really skeptical about their skills.

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Mike - Diesel prices seem to be quite high in Illinoi sin general, which leads me to suspect that Illinois simply has high taxes on diesel. (Though I have no firm figures.) I drive to Michigan (via Indiana) on occasion, and find that diesel prices are $ .30-50 cheaper in both Indiana and Michigan than they are in Chicago. Part of that is, of course, getting out of the metro area. But gas prices are not correspondingly lower. (Indiana and Michigan also have tax-exempt vs. taxed diesel prices, which I d n't believe Illinois has. Even the higher taxed prices in IN and MI are much lower than in IL.) Before you give up hope on the TDI, take a vacation to Michigan, drive through Indiana and fill you tank with $0.88 diesel, and you'll feel better (and a day s drive will cost you about $10). Remember, too, that the diesel engine should save money in areas besides fuel (e.g. tune-ups, durability). Since I've had my TDI even less time than you have, this remains to be seen.

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Mike, you should have no trouble starting your TDI in the dead of winter. As far as fuel payback, it is unfortunate that fuel prices vary so widely from state to state and even within a city. You simply have to shop around. Where I (now) get fuel, gas s 92.9 and diesel is 101.9. If I go a mile down the road diesel is a whopping 129.9. I can't figure out how they can sell ANY diesel at that (Texaco) location.

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DOLLARS AND DIESELS...I'm beginning to wonder about the economic advantages of my diesel car. Where I live gasoline prices have dropped to $.90 per gallon while diesel stays the same at $1.18. Before the gas price decline I needed 59K miles to recover my initial diesel investment. Now, recalculating, the payback has jumped to 72K miles. Although I still like the diesel thing and it's uniqueness, I'm beginning to think that the money issue is o longer plays a significant part. I hope my TDI starts this winter as promised by VW. If not, I'm afraid I'll be going back to a gas car. Sorry, but I'm just that close to giving up on the TDI thing......Mike...Out...

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Tim -- Settle down! No need to do the ALL CAPS thing. It's hard to read. But I, too, would be interested in your question about 15" wheels. Simply using the 15" wheels that are available on, for example, the Jetta GLX, won't actually raise the chassis any higher off the ground, however. The "aspect ratio" or "profile" of the tires is different on those wheel/tire combos, so that the outside diameter of the tire is about the same as the TDI & GL's 195/60-R14. But I would like to know if anyone has pus ed the envelope on tire diameters on their Jetta. Has anyone used, for example, a 195/60-R15 ? I have no idea if this is a standard size, but what I'm wondering is this: The standard tires on the Jetta TDI are about 23.21 inches in diameter, of which 1 " is wheel, the rest tire sidewall. Through some combination of increasing wheel diameter and/or tire diameter, has anyone increased the diameter of their tires significantly. Say, to 24" or 25"? It seems that although this might have a slightly advers affect on cornering and gas mileage, as well as making the odo and speedo under-estimate distance and speed, the extra half-inch to inch of height might be useful for some folks who regularly travel over dirt roads or snow. The TDI engine, with its high torque, would seem well suited to the kind of half-hearted "SUV-ing" I'm describing, but perhaps in order to get extra ground clearance, one would need to revamp the suspension as well as the tires/wheels. Also, if too large, the tires my rub against the fenders. Anyone have any thoughts?

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GREAT WEB SITE. THE CAR IS GREAT TOO, JUST GREAT. FOR THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED.....TIMMONS OUT IN CALIFORNIA HAS A EUROPEAN HEADLIGHT SWITCH THAT ALLOWS THE USE OF FRONT FOG LIGHT AND THE HOOK UP OF A EUROPEAN REAR FOG LIGHT FOR THE JETTA. ALL THAT IS N EDED FOR THE REAR FOG LIGHT IS TO DRILL OUT THE PLASTIC COVER IN THE REAR LEFT TRUNK LIGHT HOUSING AND RUN A WIRE FROM THAT AREA TO THE LIGHT SWITCH. PRESTO...A EUROPEAN REAR FOG LIGHT. THE SWITCH IS ABOUT $65. ABOUT THE OIL THING. CONSUMER'S REPORT D D A RESEARCH PROJECT YEARS AGO TAKING NEW YORK CITY CABS AND VARYING THE OIL CHANGE INTERVAL. THE CONCLUSION ESSENTIALLY WAS THAT THE OIL CHANGE INTERVAL DIDN'T NEED TO BE 3000 MILES AND THAT 10000 WAS SUFFICIENT. SO VOLKSWAGON IS RIGHT AS WELL, EVERY 1 K. ALSO I JUST HAD MY 10000 MILE MAINTENANCE PERFORMED BY THE DEALER AND I MUST SAY THEY KNOW VERY LITTLE ABOUT THE CAR. I WOULD NOT ADVISE TOO MANY PEOPLE TO RELY ON THEIR ADVISE IF POSSIBLE. DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW IF THE PASSAT 15 INCH WHEEL HAS T E SAME LUG NUT PATTERN AS THE JETTA? MY MUFFLER DRAGS ON MY DRIVEWAY AND ALSO I LIKE THE SIZE AND STYLING OF THE WHEEL. ALSO PLEASE RECOMMEND ANY GOOD DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVES TO KEEP THINGS CLEAN. KEEP THAT DIESEL BURNING.

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The mini-FAQ oil change interval is based on the information in my 96 Passat's owner's manual. This interval is subject to change as are any of VW's specifications. Your manual has the information on your car. I personally changed mine each 5,000 miles, o about each 6 weeks. I have since added a by-pass oil cleaner and have seen an improvement in oil contamination levels at 5000 miles. I am waiting the results of a 15,000 mile analysis with the by-pass filter to decide if I will change to this interval. I will post results when I have them.

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The mini-FAQ oil change interval is based on the information in my 96 Passat's owner's manual. This interval is subject to change as are any of VW's specifications. Your manual has the information on your car. I personally changed mine each 5,000 miles, o about each 6 weeks. I have since added a by-pass oil cleaner and have seen an improvement in oil contamination levels at 5000 miles. I am waiting the results of a 15,000 mile analysis with the by-pass filter to decide if I will change to this interval. I will post results when I have them.

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Why all the confusion about oil change intervals??? READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL!!! It clearly states that after the 10K oil change, that the interval is TEN THOUSAND (10,000) miles. There is NO need to fall for the "quickie lube" shops that dupe the public into believing that they will damage their engine by following their Owner's Manual. They need the business! DUH!

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Oil Changes only every 10k miles? That's the first I've heard of that. The FAQ that Fred's got attached reccommends changing every 7500 miles. And even that seems like a stretch - seems to me I've heard 5K miles mentioned in more than one posting here. S rry that the topic keeps raising its ugly head - but perhaps we could get a final, definitive answer on the question: How often do we need to change our oil?

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About motor oil in the TDI: Since I've been reading this message board, I've read of people using Ansoil, Royal Purple, etc... I've been using Penzoil Longlife for diesel, but in my old diesel rabbit, I used HarvestKing. I saw an add for Mobil's diesel motor oil. What is the best for use in a TDI?

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James, the dealer is right. The first oil change is at 5k, the second at 10k, and every 10k thereafter. Changing the oil sooner than every 10k is totally unnecessary, unless you drive under extreme comditions, do only very short trips or use improper oi .

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The dealer told me that the 15K oil and filter change is not neccessary, and not cover under free maintenance. I may have to do it myself. Anyone has the 1st hand experience on this. Would you please share with me? Thanks.

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Hey all you TDI freaks! The Golf IV TDI are in Boston clearing customs!!!!! YaaaahooooEEEE!!! VWoA has been tight lipped about the release date but word has it that it will be after the Chicago auto show. Looks like we only get the 90 hp TDI version here in the US. Check out VWVORTEX.COM in the forums section. If you guys want to brag about fuel mileage check out the TDI Lupo - 95+ mpg!!! Keep on a chuggin! Mark

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This morning as my wife (in her car) turned south and I turned north I began stepping on my brake pedal to signal her (as we do every morning) I noticed something new. If you are pressing on the accelerator with the right foot and then you lightly (just enough to turn the brake lights on) press on the brake with the left foot there is no change, but if you hold that brake down a bit longer the engine will kill the input from the accelerator. This causes you to slow down until idle speed. Just to check hat there is no response from the accelerator I floored it, no response. I am not sure if that is a design flaw or good engineering, I would like to think it is the engineering. That was just FYI. With 16,670 miles, and 48 mpg I love my Jetta Ben

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Does anyone have any insight to wiper blades for the A3 Jetta/Golf??? One side measures about 20 1/2" long and the other measures 18 1/2" long.

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Russell mentions Amsoil products several posts below and seems pleased with them. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with either Royal Purple or Redline synthetic products. I have been using Redline 5W30 in my '95 Neon for about 2 1/2 years an am at 102,000 miles, trouble free and smooth as you can get (for a Neon SOHC). Redline does make a 15W40 especially for diesels, however, to my knowledge, Royal Purple is solely dedicated to diesels so they may be better. Any input?

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Re: TDi economy (or rather specific fuel efficency). I don't think holding your TDi at peak torque (1900rpm) will give the best fuel efficiency. The s.f.c. curve for t.diesels is usually a shallow dish with min. fuel consumption coincident with peak torque. However, I don't think this applies for part load conditions; so for cruising with max economy you might want some other rpm. Also into 'economy' you should factor in wear and tear - i.e. that would mean lower rpm for cruising. Also TDis need 10000miles to reach best economy; the fact that they cruise at such low revs might explain the length of running in required.

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Has anyone out there chip tuned a Jetta TDI? If so what have the results been? It is my understanding chip tuning will increase HP 25%

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Have had this vehicle for 7 mths and LOVE IT!!! As it's the only one in the near vicinity,it's great to see a website dealing with these great cars.Am getting 44mpg per tank and am hoping for better after the motor frees up a bit more.Used to have a 1990 Ti Golf but it was totalled last year.After driving a Holden for nearly a year, it was wonderful to get behind the wheel of a real car again.We also own two 76 golfs and a 77 twincab Kombi,which we use to tow the racing Golf to events(motorkhanas etc.,).T e Golf inevitably beats the **** out of the Datsuns and other Jap**** that turns up.Have been racing for 8 years and so far keep winning the championships.The VW is one of the few cars that doesn't have its' bonnet up during runs.We're a real VW family(ru ning a VW repair business) and wouldn't have it any other way.Hopefully Australia will import 1998 Tdi's but so far there's no word yet.Hope everyone keeps on enjoying driving their TDi's,they are the best.

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Has anyone ever heard a vibration metalic sound from the engine while accelerating. I do hear the normal turbine winding up or "whistle" through the RPM increase. I however also hear a grinding or vibration also for at the 2000 or 2300 mark. The car on y has 11k on it and I am careful to idle the car before I shut it down. Any input?

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Ref Oil Consumption. Here in the UK the first oil service is 10K miles. Mine is now due. I was assured that the high initial oil consumption would settle down and it has. It seems now to be nil. My advice is dont worry about unnecessary early oil changes, accept VW's advice and break/run it in before changing to superior oils. A well run in engine will give better power.

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Russell, I know you're shooting for the world record mileage for a passenger car. Well, I found it in the 1998 Guiness Book. Top honors go to a 1963 VW Beetle with 1.6 million miles. The clock was still going when the car was totalled in an accident in 1997. I don't know what kind of records the owner provided since the odometers back then rolled over every 100000 miles. That poor guy must've cried when his car died... especially if he was the original owner. I've found that if I average 16,000 miles per page in my little hard bound "TDI Log," it should last me 1.6 million miles. Let's see if I last that long... I'm hoping the car will. Take Care, Scott

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Another dealer gripe (although one with a --hopefully- happy ending): After 5 phone calls over the course of several days, I managed to get the dealer to answer the following question -- "When you changed the oil in my car, what kind of oil did you put i ?" [/Sarcasm on] I realize that this is one of those off-the-wall, whacky questions that no dealer or service person could be expected to know. I mean, how could someone evn know what kind of oil they were putting in a car, or even which person at a gar ge might be responsible for knowing that? [/Sarcasm off] Anyway, they finally told me they used Valvoline Durablend, synthetic-blend, 5W-30. (Actually, as you can imagine, the information above was provided in bits and pieces over the course of several phone calls -- starting with "Valvoline," eventually getti g to "5W-30" weight, then "CF rating," then "Durablend.") I recall that someone recommended synthetic blends as their "second choice" for TDIs. Any comments on Valvoline Durablend? Since I have to keep topping off the oil every couple weeks or so (I've only got 5K on the car, and so I imagine that this oil-burning/leaking period will continue for a while longer), would it be best to stick with Durablend (assuming I can find it at the local Pep Boys), or just switch completely to a full synthetic like Mo il 1?

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I know what your thinking, Lumina with a TDI?? I'm working on research at OSU to make cars more fuel efficient, and a VW TDI is a great engine for that purpose. I would like to know where I might locate a diagnostic computer for changing the various map in the ECU. I would like to modify them and experiment with different values. Thanks in advance.

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I'll second Bryan re: dealers' knowledge of the new Jettas, especially the TDI. When browsing at a dealership recently, I suggested to the sales rep who was shadowing me that the Jetta VI was almost nice enough to give me second thoughts about having bou ht my Jetta in June, but that I had gotten a TDI -- and the dealership didn't have a Jetta IV TDI right now, so perhaps I made the right choice anyway. (Never mind the fact that mine was $4K less than it would be now.) Professor Sales then tried to dem nstrate his knowledge of that "really neat" TDI engine, saying that they've made all sorts of najor improvements in the (TDI) engine for the Jetta IV -- for example, now it has 155 hp. Anyway, perhaps I'm wrong, but I thought the engine in the 99.5 TDI was essentially identical to the 97-99 TDIs. And VW specs show it's still cranking out a whopping 90 hp. Anyone who knows different, or could rattle off the changes they've made to the DI engine, I'd love to know. (And in a way, I can't blame Professor Sales -- sometimes the TDI *feels* like 150 hp. But Bryan is right -- don't trust the sales droids to give it to you straight.)

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60 MPG FROM YOUR TDI ENGINE? I wanted to update everyone on my quest for better mileage. My Tdi has 29,000 miles, I use the Amsoil synthetic 15W40 oil for diesels and the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I have so far been able to obtain 55.39 MPG highway riving. My mileage was 8-10 mpg less with petroleum oil and no fuel moidifier. Tire pressure was kept at 35psi. I am going to continue to apply different techniques to get to the 60MPG mark. I believe that this engine is capable of around 65-70MPG wit some other modifications. With a few internal engine modifications the 75MPG plus range can be expected. The most inportant is to keep the engine in the "fat" portion of the torque curve 1900 RPM. I do most of my driving at highway speeds and will con entrate on tire and gear combinations that will keep me closer to the torque curve at the normal speed I drive. I would love to hear from people that have real life stories with this engine and the improvement in mileage that occured from your different ideas. E-mail me with questions, suggustions or just stories, also who has racked up the highest miles on their iesel product? Anybody out there with over 500,000 miles? HAVE A GREAT TDI DAY!!

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60 MPG FROM YOUR TDI ENGINE? I wanted to update everyone on my quest for better mileage. My Tdi has 29,000 miles, I use the Amsoil synthetic 15W40 oil for diesels and the Amsoil diesel fuel modifier. I have so far been able to obtain 55.39 MPG highway riving. My mileage was 8-10 mpg less with petroleum oil and no fuel moidifier. Tire pressure was kept at 35psi. I am going to continue to apply different techniques to get to the 60MPG mark. I believe that this engine is capable of around 65-70MPG wit some other modifications. With a few internal engine modifications the 75MPG plus range can be expected. The most inportant is to keep the engine in the "fat" portion of the torque curve 1900 RPM. I do most of my driving at highway speeds and will con entrate on tire and gear combinations that will keep me closer to the torque curve at the normal speed I drive. I would love to hear from people that have real life stories with this engine and the improvement in mileage that occured from your different ideas. E-mail me with questions, suggustions or just stories, also who has racked up the highest miles on their iesel product? Anybody out there with over 500,000 miles? HAVE A GREAT TDI DAY!!

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For those with squeaks and rattles: The body to door upper weatherstripping can make noises as you drive along. My Dealer did a field fix by putting clear mylar tape on the inside top edge of all doors where the weatherstrip meets the door. Much quiete . I'm still getting 42/43 MPG and now have driven 39K miles. Tires look good to 50K. Brakes are good for some more miles. Loving every minute driving this car!!!!! I hate riding in my carpool when it not turn for me to drive! Lights on the A/C and Recirc switch assembly have gone out twice. The first one lost the orange Recirc light, the second the orange A/C light. First they glow white then nothing. The bulbs are not available separately the dealer has said. Anyone know therwise? I have driven the gas 1999 new Jetta. Sweet car. More front headroom. Less rear headroom and slightly smaller trunk. Very tight and quiet. Watch those ill-informed dealers. They'll mess you up real quick if you don't watch out.

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Can anyone supply me with either addresses,phone numbers, and or e-mail addresses for VW in the US and Germany.After many useless and frustrating calls to VOA I need to pusue a bad problem higher.Anyone know Dr. F. Peche e-mail?

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After over 18 months of waiting for the TDI Passat and then for the A4, I've taken the plunge. Simply stated it was worth the wait. Took delivery of GLS TDI on 12/2 and filled the tank. The car is a total blast to drive, wonderful road feel, good seat , great headlights and the blue dash lights are very pleasing to the eye. Fit and finish are marvelous - Those of you concerned about the "built in Mexico" label should not be. My wife has a '95 gas Jetta assembled in Mexico, and both of these vehicles ere deliverd with zero defects - the only two new cars I've ever seen to fit that category. Brakes are awesome and pickup is fantastic to someone who's been driving VW diesels since 1978. Those of you used to burning gas may not be as imprssed with acce eration, but I find it more than adequate. I had hoped to better the EPA 49 mpg, but wasn't prepared for what happened when I topped it off (right to the brim, at the same pump where I filled it on the day of purchase. I went 536 miles on 8.8 gallons wh ch comes out to about 61 mpg - and that's US gallons! Yes, there might have been an air bubble in the tank, but considering that the gauge was showing more than 3/8 of a tank left and that I filled up exactly the way I did the first time, I tend to think the figures are accurate. Any other A4 TDI owners out there with mileage reports? To anyone on the fence about this new car, I'd recommend that you buy it - unless, of course, you're waiting for the new Golf. P.S. This car loafs at 55, only 1900 rpm; at 65 she's turning a hair over 2200. At 65 my old jetta tells me "OK you got it to 65, but you're going to have to work to keep it there, especially if you come to a hill." The new one says, "C'mon, let it out a little, the cops won't bother you, let's go." Oh the temptation!

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Bought a 98 Jetta TDI in July. It has been in the shop every month since we got it. The auto locks went out. The battery leaked. The power steering reservoir developed a leak and leaked the fluid everywhere. And more. However, two problems are of more pressing concern, and my dealer is not very helpful. One is that the gas (er, diesel) mileage is nowhere near the rated mileage figure. This does not seem to be related to driving speed or diesel source. And, two, the heck engine light will not go off. We have taken it in five times with the check engine light problem. The guys in the service bay hook the computers up to it and each time we get a different story. First, it was a "not very descriptive problem code that probably meant nothing. Go ahead and drive it and see if it doesn't go off on its own." Next was that the gas/diesel cap was not on tightly, and in a "closed evaporative system" this can cause the heck engine light to come on. Third was the "maybe you aren't waiting 'till the glow plug light goes off on the dash panel before starting the engine." We are religious about waiting for the glow plug light. Fourth was "maybe you aren't getting enough PMs before shifting gears." My wife drove for the service manager and he said she was shifting well. And, most recently, the fifth time we have had the car in for the engine light, they said that they were getting the same error code again that they had gotten with the glow plugs and were ordering a new sensor. What strikes me as odd about this is that we had no check engine light before they worked on the car to fix the locking mechanism (I believe they replaced several components including the "vacuum pump") and the power steering fluid reservoir. And, the on y time the light has been off for any length of time since then was for about a two week period following the 5000 mile scheduled maintenance. Their response to the low diesel mileage issue is that "we have been hearing that a lot." But, my wife knows a lady that has a '98 Jetta like ours that she says is getting the rated mileage. Now that I have seen many of these posts, I am going to check into the oil issue. I will let everyone know if it makes a difference. I am at the point of desperation. I have called VW Customer Relations and am pondering filing a formal complaint against our dealer. Since our vehicle does not yet comply with the requisites for "lemon laws" in our state, I don't know any other course o action. I too am a VW enthusiast, and love our car outside these issues. However, I am concerned enough about the lack of care my dealer has shown and their inability to fix and address these issues that my enthusiasm is waning. E-mail me with any information you have that can shed some light on these issues -- your help will be greatly appreciated. --Ron

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Who can me tell more about the upgrade from a golf tdi 90 hp (66kW) to a 110 hp (81 kW). The advantages and disadvantages? Send a e-mail to: Tom.Lagaeysse@village.uunet.be. Greetings from Belgium.

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To Jason Gull, this may be of interest to you, since you aren't sure about what oil they used in your car. (I have some older posts if you want to check how all this started)

I had my 5K service done at a local dealership and tried to confirm with the service manager what oil they were using. I called the service department and the customer service rep at the dealership. None of the service folks even knew what the oil's API r ting was. The customer service rep on the other hand ordered the service manager to call me, and even he didn't know the API rating.

I pointed out that he ought to make it a point to know what the rating was, so he promised to call VW and find out. The next day, when we spoke he told me that they did put SJ oil in my car, and would perform another oil and filter change with CG oil for ree. Apparently a bunch of the dealerships are getting a good deal on bulk oil from VW, which buys it from Castrol. The service manager claims VW did not inform them that the bulk oil was inappropriate for diesels until he called them with my query.

So it seems that some dealerships are aware of the details for servicing the TDI's, but some aren't. Calling the service department was pretty futile for me, but calling the customer service rep seemed to help. I made it clear that I was very unhappy with the dealership, and pointed out that VW had not yet called me for the service department survey. (I had warranty work done and I was supposed to be called about the quality of service.) That seemed to motivate her to get this resolved.

Hope this helps!

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This morning as I walked to my car, I saw another Jetta TDI for the first time since I bought mine in June. (Ontario plates -- shoulda figured it was a Canadian.) I haven't had any trouble starting my TDI yet, but we've been blessed with mild temps so f r, so I will be interested to see how the TDI handles cold starts. Anyway, I just had my 5K service done (basically, just an oil change). Unfortunately, I can't seem to get anyone to tell me what kind of oil they used -- and I certainly made it clear wh n I dropped it off that I wanted diesel-grade oil. Anyway, I'm wondering, since I assume there's no way to tell what kind of oil they used just by looking, whether it would behoove me to spend the cash and have the oil changed again to make sure C-grade il is used? A couple comments on the interior (in response to some recent posts, and just FYI): Like some others on this board, I am 6'4", but I don't have trouble fitting in the driver's seat. I don't even have to crank the seat all the way back -- I just lower it w/ the height adjustment. I have the sunroof, too. Interior height isn't as good as Volvos I've driver, or my friend's Honda CR-V, but it beats the heck out of the Honda and Nissan sedans I looked at last summer, and ties the Subaru. For those having t ouble fitting, I suggest playing with the height-adjuster. That may solve the proble (or I'm just short-waisted). I saw the new Jetta IV when I took my car in for service. It looks to be a bit bigger, and the GLS model I saw was significantly more "polished" inside than the Jetta III. But it's so expensive that none of us with 96-98 TDIs should kick ourselves for n t waiting. (E.g. the 15" alloy wheels are nice, but as an option they cost more than buying a complete new set would cost -- $1095! The only true innovations in the interior are (1) a real cupholder, (2) extra space for a CD player, (3) a folding armres , and (4) an improved glovebox.) Speaking of interior improvements, I bought and installed the Husco/VW armrest (see http://www.husco.com or the VW Store VW's site). It's not that great -- it only adjusts forward/backward, doesn't have a storage compart ent, and the cup holders that slide out (1) are flimsy and too small, and (2) sort of get in the way of the shifter. But it's nice to have an armrest. It comes in black only from VW dealers, but Husco says it will trade you a different color pad for $6 hipping. Many dealers wanted $150+ for the armrest and another $70+ for installation. VW sells it retail on it website for $120. I got it from a dealer for $100, and installation is simple, even for the non-mechanically-inclined -- it can be accomplish d in less than an hour with a screwdriver, a drill, and a pencil. Anyway, for those lamenting the lack of an armrest and cupholders, it's an OK option. Now if only they made a replacement glove compartment ... Sorry for the length of the post, but since everyone here seems to love the engine, while many complain about the (Jetta) interior, I thought I'd mention it.

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To Paul Tillotson: Sounds like you got a LEMON. My Jetta has almost 30K miles with ZERO "rattles and squeeks" and ZERO defects so far. The quality of this vehicle is phenominal.

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To Gordon Acorn, I have noticed wind and splashing as well. I'm 6'4" so the seat is all the way back. My golf is a 4 door so I notice it more in the golf due to the stupid B pillar at my ear. I also have a 2 door BMW 323i, and I do not notice this as much as the B pillar s set further behind the seat and head. Nothing really to worry about, open your window at speed and feel the pressure on you head when the seat is all the way back... this pressure is not there in the BMW. When the window is closed the air is hitting the B pillar and the gap between the front and rear doors. If you running a petrol turn the Music up. If you're running a Diesel turn the the music way up! Marko

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Great webpage Fred - Thanks! Like you we waited far too long for the TDI to become available, and ended up settling for a gas powered Jetta. Volkswagen doesn't seem to have it together when it comes to marketing their product. We were promised the TDI wou d be available in Canada "soon, soon" and that ended up being years later.The Passat was available in '96-Far too expensive. Our Jetta is a very loveable car, but I must admit that I'm a little envious when I pull up next to a TDI, and hear that wonderful diesel clatter. There are a few things that I hope they improve upon with the new Jetta: I HATE the fact that it takes over 7 cranks to lower/raise the windows-(I understand that power windows arre an option, but onre must order the dreaded power sunroof! I HATE the fact that the lovely power sunroof makes the front passenger seat uninhabitable to all but the vertically challenged. And last of all, I am a little sceptical of the build quality. Our car is only 19 months old now, and there are a miriad of r ttles and squeaks.Perhaps the new Jetta will address all of these complaints. I hope so, 'cause I want a new TDI!

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Would like to know if There is a CD out there that will fit the VW Jetta 98. The last time I tried to buy one it had the wrong plug in the trunk? Have they changed that yet? Thanks

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Still waiting for an automatic TDI!!! When will it ever come out? My mom is driving a Peugeot Turbo diesel 505 and the body is going pretty soon so she needs a new diesel!!!

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Hi Everyone, I thought you might be interested in a new article on my webpage. It was transcribed from a VW brochure I picked up in 1997. It's a report about a Jetta TDI that raced in the One Lap of America. Check it out. Just go to my homepage (link above) a d select the Volkswagen link. About 2/3 of the way down, you'll see a link called "TDI Diary." That's it! Enjoy, Scott

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Al wie mij iets kan vertellen over de upgrade van een golf tdi 90 pk naar een 110 pk met behulp van een elektronische chip, E-MAIL MIJ! Alle reacties zijn welkom! Geef uw mening! Zijn er nadelen aan zoiets verbonden?

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You can push-start manual gas cars just as easily.

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An earlier message stated about getting the injector pump timed after replacing the timing belt at 60K miles. Is the injector pump still mechanically timed or does the ECM have marginal control over injector timing? If so, does this mean that if the ECM goes bad, the engine will not start? Earlier Rabbit and Jetta diesels had no ECM for engine performance, and relied on mechanical timing. So, if your battery was dead, you could push start the car. Do we still have this capability with the new TDIs? T at was one luxury that diesels in the past had over gasoline. Please email me if you know per fact about the extent of the ECM control. Oh! Before I forget. Does anyone know the wiring for adding a turbo timer to these TDIs?

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To Gary re: Golf 4 TDI Here is an e-mail I recieved from VWNA in August: << Dear Allen, Back on July 3rd you stopped by our site with interest in a Golf TDI. Well Allen, the good news is that in 1999 the Golf TDI will now be brought to the US and Canada. Thanks to comments like yours the Golf TDI will be available. We hope you will stay tuned later this year for exciting updates Allen.. Mark Volktalk>>

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The new Ford Focus is to use a new, direct injection diesel engine. This will compete with the Golf TDi for economy; it has 89bhp at 4000rpm and 148ft-lb at 2000rpm, it doesn't have anything fancy like common rail and appears to based on the old IDI block (8v). Surely if it's a Ford it should be available in the US market?! A lot of old diesels never really made sense in the UK market because of the higher initial cost/servicing costs,inferior refinement/ performance and only marginal benefits in fuel economy. That's changing now all major manufacturers are going the direct injection turbo-charged route. I bought my Ibiza for the way it performs, not economy (which is just a bonus). If economy is your concern, then choose carefully: depreciation is the biggest cost, unless you want a car to 'drive into the ground'. The mkIV Golf TDi scores thanks to percieved quality and should have v. low depreciation (in the UK).

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To Gary Pieper, look at my previous posts on this page regarding CD changers. If you still have questions, email me.

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I read a question about V8 engine...if you meant a TDI engine i know Audi will produce (or present) in October 1999 his new A8 TDI V8, with arguably a displacement around 4,000 cc. and a max power higher than 200 hp. This car will be in a market competiti n VS BMW 740d (common rail V8, 4000 cc., 230 hp and more than 500 Nm torque) and Mercedes S 400 CDI (common rail V8, 4000 cc., 240 hp). There will be a great "Top-Diesel" battle, with cars able of 142/150 mph and with a lot of torque!!! Have a nice TDI!
 

12/09/98 02:44:50

Name: John	My Email: Email Me
City: Louisville	Province/State: KY	Country: USA
Your VW/Audi: '98 Jetta TDI

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I've read where VW and Porche have just agreed to jointly build an SUV. Although the Porche will have a V-8, the VW version will only have a V-6. I'm pretty sure I've read that they plan to make a luxury car within a few years that would have a V-8. Si ce Audi already has V-8s, I don't think it will take too long before they eventually stick one in a VW.

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I've heard nothing about a V8, but have seen an article in a recent Car and Driver about a W18, a strange little engine indeed.

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I've had my Beetle TDI for 15000 miles and am so happy with it, I wonder when VW will produce an 8 cylinder for larger vehicles, such as a medium size truck or SUV. Anyone heard anything?

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The lower pan seems to eliminate belt slippage in wet weather. If you like hard steering in the rain or low batteries on the older Diesels, remove it as my mechanic did :) Note: use visitors pass 00459ras when visiting my web site !!

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I am still waiting for VW of America to get off dead center and make the Golf TDI available here in the States. I've been driving my Ford Escort with the Mazda 2.0 liter diesel for nearly ten years. ford's support for this model has been getting worse a d worse -- thank God I haven't needed any major repairs. All of us diesel fans sould start a write-in/email/phone in campaign to get the diesel back in our driveways again.

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Just thought I'd check in. Purchased car used in April 98, now has 46K miles. Consistently gets 44-48 mpg, even cruising @ 80 mph fully loaded with family of 4 and 1 dog. Just love the car. Question for others: Is there an aftermarket CD changer that will use the built in controls? VW changer is a bit pricy. Anyone willing to part with their VW CD changer? Also, has anyone tried the PowerBox chip tuning? Interested in hearing from PowerBox users. Has anyone found a top speed governor in the engi e control? I've been to 105 mph and still climbing but had to back off for obvious reasons. Happy Holidays - Gary

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Hi TDi fans! Got a question for all A3 Jetta owners, not just diesels, about a problem I'm having. I just got my windows tinted recently, and aside from them doing a crappy job, I have noticed a lot of wind and road noise around the drivers and passenge (front) windows where the glass and the door panel meet. I don't remember it being like that before the job, but I can't see anything wrong (that is obvious). Does anyone else notice this from either stock or tinted windows? I get noticable wind noise starting at 50 km/h up, and if the road is wet, I hear water spraying. It almost seems like they removed some weather stripping or something. Anyways, I must say I really love the TDi, especially for highway driving. Fast, quiet, and low consumption. am getting around 6 l/100km around the city, and about 5.4 l/100km in mixed driving, with only 4400 km's on the clock. So far I have used 1 liter of oil, and expect to likely use more before the first maintenance. Something useful I have found to get t e engine to warm up more quickly when cold, is to turn the heater down to cold and leave the fan off. It warms up much more quickly like this, and then you have full heat available. Of course, having the heated seats helps with this as well! I have a p etty short commute as well, and I am kind of concerned that I am doing damage to the engine. It gets up to full operating temp before I am half way to work, but am I doing extra harm by not having a longer commute? Any comment are appreciated. Thanks.
 

12/08/98 16:45:55

Name: Sol	My Email: Email Me
City: Berwyn	Province/State: IL	Country: USA
Your VW/Audi: '98 Jetta TDI

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Well, I told you last week that my TDI lacked power and that the dealer said the 'fuel regulator' needed to be replaced. Since a had never heard of a diesel 'fuel regulator', I called the mechanic to inquire. He corrected himself telling me that the probl m was in fact the fuel cut-off valve. Having replaced the cut-off valve in my old '84 Diesel Rabbit, I decided to remove it to see if it in fact was the problem. After taking off the body of the part, I noticed the O-RING seemed to be STUCK TO FAR in and hen I re-assembled everything my car ran fine! My only explaination is that the o-ring was actually restricting fuel flow... Does anyone have any ideas why it worked??

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Further to Adrian Floyd's comments on the mk4. It really is a superb vehicle in all respects. It is a huge improvement over the mk3 Golf. And it is a stunning looking car. The build quality is supreme and the interior is that of a far more expensive car. have to mention the blue illumination. Sorry, but its amazing. In the mk4 form, the TDI is a far more capable car. I'm not sure what they've done to it but it seems a lot quicker.

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Nice page, didn't think I'd find one to do with TDIs but there you go. I'm on the same webring with a page about my previous car, a VW Corrado. Then I've changed that for a Golf TDI. May seem like a weird turnaround, but I have to say that I don't have an regrets about buying a TDI car. The power is superb and the economy is brilliant. It even sounds nice (well once its moving, bit truck like when idling, but who cares)

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Just an interesting observation: On a level road, you can start out in 3rd gear with your foot OFF the accelerator, gradually release the clutch and get going with little or NO lugging. Try doing that with your Jap import!

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Hi Fred... Love your stuff on the VW,s... You also do a super job on the site layout !! Have 212,000 miles on my 91 Jetta diesel, hasn't skipped a beat. I am taking delivery of a new (blk)99 Jetta GL TDI on Thursday and will keep you informed. Note:to visit my webb site requires visitors pass # 00459ras. Let me know if I can be of some help!!

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Thought that I would mention that Robert Bosch, Inc. has a website at www.boschservice.com, unfortunately it is primarily for licensed diesel mechanics who log on with a password for info on injectors, etc. One good thing about it for those who are not pr fessional diesel mechanics is that you can check their map listing for authorized Robert Bosch Diesel mechanic shops by each state (in the USA) and many of these shops have URL's with their own websites containing good information and or email questions. heck it out, it may be of assistance to you sometime or another!

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Hi,I don't know about other countries, but cruise control is standard on TDIs in the US, probably in Canada, too. Take Care, Scott

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CRUISE CONTROL ON TDI Somebody told me TDI cars are prepared for cruise control because of the electronic engine management system. Has anybody installed cruise control on their cars so far? Please inform us about this operation. Tin

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I am drunk....but I would love to have a TDI VW someday. I hate filling up the tank. 700 mile range sounds get to me =).

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As I mentioned in a recent comment, I put an order in for a new Jetta GLS TDI w/alloys and sun roof. I am selling my 1998 Jetta TDI, black/black with sun roof, 10,000 miles no scratches or dings 14,000 miles or 17 months left on factory warranty. I may co sider using one of my frequent flyer airline tickets for a serious buyer who submits a contingent deposit. $14,000 firm sticker $18,300. New Jetta GLS w/options over $21,000 as you can see this is a great price for this vehicle. Serious inquiries page me oll free at 888-444-6827. Best regards, Leonard

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I've been waiting for the new body style to come out and it finally did. I have a black Jetta TDI with gray interior. It's a 5-speed. I like the 15" wheels, the roof-mounted antenna, the pep that it has, and the new blue and red colored dash night ligh s. So far, I'm glad that I traded my '96 Jetta GLS in for it. The down side is that the dealerships do NOT want to back off of the MSRP, as they are not doing with the New Beetle either. I've traveled approximately 460 miles and still have about a thir tank of gas left. It really is a classy looking car and I hope to get many miles and years of service. Brent

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My TDI does not have the power it used to. I thought that the turbo was broken, but the dealer said that the FUEL REGULATOR needs to be replaced (about $300). Does anyone know if this is a fair price? I have done some repair on my old diesel rabbit, could I replace this part myself?? Also, I enjoy the car, but not the payments! If anyone is interested in buying a '98 JETTA TDI, red, w/ 27k miles - let me know.

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Ok guys....here is my little story...My car as just arrived at 7000 km, and i changed the oil at 5000 km...with the factory oil my car was "drinking" more or less 5,7 l/100 km (with my drive) and the temperature of the oil was ± 94°C stable at 80-120 km/h The oil that i choose for the first change was Castrol RS 10w60 API SJ/CF tottaly synthetic and with the 505.00 VW approval test...which means that the oil can be used at this kind of engine... But, after i changed the oil, at noticed that the temperature at stable velocity (80-100 km/h) was higher ± 98°C and the car as also arrised his comsuption of fuel ± 6,4 l/100km....it was very stranged, because i didn´t change my driving manners !! so i s art to think that the oil was the guilty for this problem ! So at ± 6000 km i changed the oil again...and this time i put the semi-synthetic Shell Rotella diesel 15W40 API-CF 505.00 VW and...surprise !! the car start to consume less fuel and the temperatu e went to ± 94°C at 80-100 km/h I made ± 100